Gate & Building Entry Locks: what to note first

The padlock on the side gate has gone stiff every winter for three years running, and this year the key simply will not turn past the first few pins. Salt spray off the road and a season of meltwater have left the cylinder pitted and reluctant.

Worth answering before the call

Is the lock dragging, slamming, stuck, or simply not latching? Is the gate sagging, dragging, or hard to close by hand? Is there any sign the gate or lock was recently forced?

What is the difference between a gate lock and a regular door lock?

A gate lock is built to work outdoors, so it usually pairs a latch or bolt with a closer that swings the gate shut on its own using its own spring, rather than relying on a person to push it home. The cylinder tends to be weather-rated, and the whole assembly fits a gate frame or post rather than a conventional door jamb. A building entry door, by contrast, often combines this outdoor hardware with an interior-style latch or an electric strike.

Should every gate on my property share one key, or is it better to keep them separate?

Either can make sense, and the choice usually comes down to who uses which gate and how often. A household that walks through the front and side gates daily generally prefers one key for both, while a gate that only a landscaper or utility worker uses is sometimes kept on its own key deliberately, so lending it out does not hand over access to everything else. The locksmith can lay out both options once every gate on the property has been looked at.